Gas Fridge Replacement Parts: What you should have in case of an emergency

Gas refrigerators are designed to operate without electricity. For this reason, they are perfect for off grid living, therefore most of the propane refrigerators that we sell end up in remote locations. Within these remote off grid locations, surviving without the conveniences of the big city stores to acquire a replacement part 24/7 is not a possibility. The more experienced off grid survivalist will be prepared for failures. Even some of our customers that purchase a gas fridge just for vacation purposes will want to be prepared for something to go wrong.

“What spare parts do I need in case something goes wrong with my Gas Refrigerator?”

We get this question from some of our customers and the answer is surprising. Only one part is prone to wear or degrade over time. That is the thermocouple. Since Gas Refrigerators don’t have moving parts, there is very little to go wrong or wear out. Of course there are some interior parts that can be abused and break, but this is subject to the user, not normal operating usage.

The thermocouple is one part of the gas safety valve system within all gas refrigerators. The thermocouple probe engulfed by the flame and detects the heat from the flame when it is on. If the flame gets extinguished for any reason, the probe senses the loss of heat and will shut off the gas supply to the burner. This insures that no raw un-burned gas is expelled into the living space.

The gas refrigerator thermocouple will degrade over time due to the heating and cooling of the flame. This is a natural occurrence and is common with any device using a thermocouple such as heaters and stoves. 

Debris passing through the burner will accelerate this wear rate of the thermocouple. Debris will enter the air intake of the burner and pass through the burner head at which point it will incinerate and turn to carbon. This carbon will attach itself to the thermocouple. Over time, the carbon will build up and cause uneven heat stress on the thermocouple probe. This will eventually cause premature failure of the thermocouple. At this point the thermocouple will need to be replaced.

This is why we give the suggestion to keep the area around and under your gas fridge clean of debris. This not only prolongs the life of your gas fridge, but also keeps the unit operating at the highest efficiency.

Replacement of the thermocouple is fairly easy and most anybody that is handy with a wrench can handle the job. We supply a “Set-up, Service, and Maintenance DVD” with each EZ Freeze Gas Refrigerator we sell. This DVD explains the set by step process for thermocouple replacement.

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What is Absorption refrigeration?

What are Gas powered refrigerators?

Air Circulation & Venting for Absorption Refrigeration

All propane refrigerators, whether they are the type in a recreational vehicle (RV) or the type made specifically for in home use, operate from the same process known as Absorption Refrigeration.


The theory of this process is simple, absorb the warm air from interior of the refrigeration box and replace it to the exterior thus making the interior cold. While the theory is simple, the process is a little more complex. To understand the process in simple terms we can explain it as follows; The heat of the flame boils the ammonia and water solution to turn it into a pure ammonia liquid state at the point of the condenser. During this process, the absorption system pumps the solution to the top of the unit. At this point the pure ammonia liquid flows via gravity downward through the freezer compartment and then the refrigerator compartment all the while absorbing the warmer air of the interior. Once it reaches the point of full saturation, the pure ammonia liquid now exits the insulated interior to the non-insulated exterior where it begins the mixing process with the water. At this point it dissipates the heat that it has absorbed through the absorber coils to the exterior air. See more information on the Absorption Refrigeration System.

At the point of the condenser and the area of the absorber coils, air circulation is critical for maximum performance and efficiency of the unit. If air circulation is limited in these areas, not only will short term performance suffer, but long term permanent damage may occur.


In order to allow for proper air circulation and allow the absorption unit to breathe, there are only a few rules to follow when designing the gas refrigerator space. In most cases, fans or special ducting is not needed. Allowing for ample clearance around the unit is usually enough to allow proper air circulation.


One of the most common questions we get asked is “What are the clearance minimums for a propane refrigerator?”  Although there is not one answer for this question due to the variety of environments and usage cycles for any given family, we can give best practice estimations of 8” above,  1” on the sides, and 1” on the back.


We realize that all kitchens spaces are not created equal. Below we will try to describe the most common kitchen arrangements and the best venting applications for each.

Absorption Refrigeration Venting Examples

Figure 1 – Best case
We describe this as best case since there are no structures (cabinets, shelves, sofits, etc…)  above  to obstruct the heat from rising out from the rear of the unit and also with at least one side being completely open, there is no need for further ventilation. Note - For hotter and more humid climates, an air intake at or near the floor level combined with an vent from the burner exhaust of the fridge to the outside may be added to aid in this climate type. 

Figure 2 – Limited top vent
A limited air escape at the top rear of the unit must be addressed with a vent to allow the hot air to rise up and escape. Trapping the hot air behind the unit will cause poor performance and long term damage. There are a number of different ways to allow the air escape. Depending on construction of your space will determine which method is best for you.

One method is to place a vent through the wall at the rear of the unit to the outside or another well ventilated room (not a bedroom). This vent must be placed at least to the level of the top of the refrigerator or higher. A vent with the area equal to 8” x 24” is adequate.

Another method is to allow the hot air to pass behind the upper cabinet or through the upper cabinet and escape to the ceiling area above or attic space above. This can be accomplished by relocating the cabinet forward 6 inches from the rear wall to create a passage way. Cutting holes in the cabinet floor and cabinet ceiling will also accomplish a passage way. Installing a false back inside the cabinet in order to keep objects from covering the holes is a good idea.

Since most of the heat that the fridge produces, comes from the burner exhaust, direct venting the burner exhaust will further aid promoting air circulation. 

Figure 3 – Boxed in. Worst case
The built-in type of construction is worst case scenario and is not recommended without proper ventilation. Some manufactures will void warranty for this type of install and no or limited venting. Rear floor vents and top exit vents as described above are both required in this case. A direct burner exhaust is also recommended.

We highly recommend “testing” the ventilation prior to using it long term. The testing process is simple. Operate the fridge in an open space near the final destination. Record the fridge and freezer interior temperatures as well as exterior ambient room temperatures for a period of a week at normal operating usage. Then install the fridge into the final space and proceed to measure the temperatures for the next week. Compare these temperatures to determine if the final destination space has adequate ventilation and air circulation. If interior temperatures stay the same and no thermostat adjustment is needed, then the final space is good. If not, then more air movement is needed.

Some owners have elected to use a small fan to circulate the air behind the gas refrigerator or freezer. These fans are available with DC/solar power sources.

More ventilation suggestions can be found on the EZ Freeze Refrigerator Manufacturer site.

Keep the absorption coils and fins clean from dirt and debris to allow for better heat transfer. Never set anything on top of the refrigerator the covers or partially covers the cooling fins, thereby restricting airflow through the fin area.

Venting the burner exhaust (flue pipe) directly outside or into the attic with similar plumbing as a water heater requires will rid the area of most of the heat the refrigerator produces. Metal type vent pipe from 1 ½” to 3” diameter works well. Hot water heater type venting is available at most hardware stores. Do not make a sealed connection between the fridge burner exhaust (flue pipe) and Vent Pipe connection. Simply hover the vent pipe over the flue pipe thus allowing for some cool air to draft in at this point in order to create a good flow and cool the exhausting air. Be sure to cap the vent at the exterior with a shield to prohibit air to back draft into the vent and blow out the burner flame.

The above are simply suggestions for proper air circulation. Other techniques may be used. Just remember that air circulation and venting are best practice for peak gas refrigerator performance as well as proper safety practices.

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Winterize Your Propane Refrigerator

We often get asked by our customers the question of “How to winterize my propane refrigerator?” Since most people understand that a propane fridge absorption system contains water as part of the solution, they assume that the system is subject to freezing in low winter temperatures. Do not fear, the absorption unit is sealed and pressurized and will not freeze due to this fact.


With that being said, there are still a few things you can do for your propane refrigerator to protect it from the weather or from just being unattended for long periods.


The first thing we suggest is to do a full defrost on the unit and completely dry the interior of both the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This will keep any standing water from freezing and breaking interior plastic parts. Remember to empty the water from the interior and exterior defrost trays. Towel-dry the interior. This will also help keep mold from forming.


Keep the doors open slightly. Do this to help prevent the mold forming. We suggest to keep the doors open with only a small piece of cardboard to prevent rodents or critters from getting inside.


Remove any contents such as soda cans that are subject to expansion when freezing. We suggest this anytime the fridge is unattended for long periods even if it continues to be “on”. Since gas refrigerators are highly subject to ambient temperatures, a lower ambient temperature can cause the refrigerator compartment interior to drop below freezing and freeze the interior items. We have seen soda cans explode with enough force to break interior shelves and drawers, not to mention the mess it creates.


Turn the propane system off. First turn the valve at the fridge off while the fridge is operating and let it burn the excess propane from the gas lines and controls. This helps keep spiders and insects from being attracted to the propane smell at the burner. Then turn the main valve at the tank off. This will eliminate the possibility of a small leak depleting your gas supply.


For climates that contain high salt content in the air such as beach homes, we suggest to wax the exterior finish using typical car wax. This will create a barrier and help prevent any possible corrosion.


Lastly, spray an insect repellant around the burner area to further prevent spiders and insects from nesting inside of the burner tube.  This will make your first day of next year’s vacation much more enjoyable.

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Propane refrigerators. Non-Electric. Gas Only!

EZ Freeze gas refrigerators are completely non-electric in operation and use either propane gas or natural gas to freeze and refrigerate foods. That statement is not exactly true, since the LED interior light does use 4 "D" cell type batteries for operation. But the important part does not require electricity or any power source other than gas to both start-up and continuously refrigerate. Simply hook up the gas line to the gas source and light the flame. The fridge will be cooling within the first hour and be completely cooled down in about 8 to 12 hours depending on the size capacity of the unit.


There are a few reasons why EZ Freeze chooses to go this route of completely non-electric as opposed to a dual power (gas or 110 volt AC) operation. The main reason is the fact that EZ Freeze was founded by and currently owned by the Amish. Why would being Amish have anything to do with the power operation of the refrigerators? Amish beliefs include being independent of others and living a simple lifestyle. Not being "plugged in" to the electric grid is a big part of the Amish independence. In a modern day Amish home you will find gas powered refrigerators, hand or gas engine powered clothes washers, and gas powered lighting.


The original development of the EZ Freeze brand was centered on supplying the Amish communities. And the largest gas powered refrigerators were born. From that point, their distribution has expanded to the non-Amish world and now is the most popular brand of propane powered refrigerators.


Another reason for the non-electric design is the simplicity. No circuit boards, solenoids, or motors to complicate the operation. The only moving part of an EZ Freeze gas refrigerator is the thermostat unless you count the water and ammonia solution moving through the absorption system. The solution moves via gravity and pressure. The flame boils the solution and the vapors rise to the top of the unit where they condense back to a liquid. From there it travels downhill with only gravity helping. No motors or pumps involved in the circulation of the fluids within the sealed absorption system.


Other brand gas refrigerators, particularly the recreational vehicle type units, do require electricity to operate on propane gas. The RV industry has gravitated toward the use of circuit boards and solenoids to control the refrigerator temperature and automatic switching devices from one power source to another. All these features have complicated the once simple unit and have dramatically increased repairs within the RV industry. For this reason, most of the home style gas refrigerator brands such as EZ Freeze have stayed away from these devices.


One current brand and some brands no longer in production have offered 110 volt AC capabilities. This addition allows for dual power operation. Operation from the 110 volt AC source is very inefficient. Here is why…. In order for the absorption system to operate, it uses a heat source such as the flame that continuously burns. During the 110 volt AC operation, this flame gets replaced by a 110 volt heater rod. A heater rod is just a heating element that gets red hot to replace the flame heat. This power draw on the electrical system is over twice as much as a standard brand name compressor type electric fridge. The only benefit to this would be for a back-up power source to the gas service if for some reason the gas supply ran out and then enough electricity could be generated to keep the food from spoiling.


The "Gas only" design is totally off grid, simple in design, low on maintenance, and completely silent. Don’t you wish everything was like this?

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“Burping” Your Propane Refrigerator

Over the years, we have heard many different reasons for “burping” a propane refrigerator. Some believe it to be the cure for all problems of a propane refrigerator.

The reason behind the burping procedure is to move the liquid solution or coolant back to the correct location within the sealed cooling system.  The coolant will migrate during transportation, moving, or operating out of level. This may create a “lock” within the sealed system therefore requiring the burping procedure to relieve the lock.

If this lock occurs, the coolant will not circulate properly and little or no cooling will occur.  There is no long term consequence if this occurs unless it is left to run like this for a long period.

TRANSPORTING – For those that wish to transport the unit beyond the delivery point or moving the fridge from one location to another, transporting standing up is recommended but not required. Strap the unit around the sides and over the top using multiple ratchet type straps to secure it. Laying the unit on the side is acceptable. The key to this is to lay the unit on the side so that the boiler is on the downward side. Most modern day built units will have the boiler to your left hand if you are standing facing the box marked “Front”.  This allows for the liquid coolant to stay in the boiler area and will most likely no create a lock when the unit is positioned back upright.

Each brand has slightly different burping procedure suggestions that they recommend for their particular models. Below is a list we compiled of the brands and the procedures.

Danby / Consul Gas Refrigerators – Standing in front of the unit and facing the front door. Lay the unit on the side to the left. Rotate the unit upside down onto it’s head. Reverse this process unit it is standing back on it’s feet. It is only necessary to leave it on each side for a minute. This is what we call the “Full Burping Procedure”. See below image.

Diamond / Miller Refrigeration Gas Refrigerators – We have had success burping this brand in many different ways. The above full burping procedure is usually successful. In some cases it only requires to tilt the unit to a 45 degree angle to the left and then to the right for only a moment. In extreme cases, laying the unit on the front door facing downward completed the process.

Crystal Cold Gas Refrigerators – The full burping procedure or the 45 degree tilt will work on the units.

EZ Freeze Gas Refrigerators – We have never had an EZ Freeze that needed the burping procedure. When transporting on the left side, no burping is necessary when this method is used. Simply stand it up and continue with the installation. The factory does recommend the full burping procedure or just the 45 degree tilt method if a lock does ever happen.

Burping is not a fix all for a propane gas refrigerator that does not cool. It will only fix a coolant liquid solution that is locked and will not circulate properly. Other reasons for not cooling may be: 

• Burner not burning clean
• Partial orifice clog
• Leaking cooling unit
• Internally clogged cooling unit*
• Low propane pressure
• Thermostat failure

*In the case of the internally clogged cooling unit, it is possible for the burping procedure to temporarily fix the low circulation of the solution, but the clog will eventually return and be permanent.

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